Quinn on Books: Salud to Small Business

Review of “New York Nico’s Guide to NYC,” by Nicolas Heller, with Jason Diamond; photography by Jeremy Cohen

Review by Michael Quinn

For nearly a decade, I managed a Brooklyn mannequin factory. Everything was made by hand. The work was messy, and the tools were loud. The process demanded precision and speed. My job was to oversee production and act as a go-between for the mostly Latin workers and the boss—a white woman they called “The Lady.”

Every December, just before we’d close for Christmas, we’d cover the lunchroom tables with red and green plastic tablecloths and order takeout. The guys would come from the showers in fresh clothes, their hair slicked back and faces flushed from shots of Hennessy. The Lady would make a speech, and everyone nodded along even though most didn’t understand a word she said. They got the gist. You just had to look around the room to see what she was saying: a small business is really a community of people depending on one another to make it work. We raised our plastic cups to drink to that. ¡Salud!

Small businesses, big characters
My time at the factory gave me a firsthand look at the challenges of running a small business. Manufacturing profit margins are extremely low, and unexpected costs — like hidden taxes, surprise inspections and broken boilers — can set you back even further.

Small business owners don’t persevere to make money; they do it because people depend on them. But a business only thrives with community support.

That’s why someone like New York Nico is a godsend. Known as “the unofficial talent scout of New York City,” Nicolas Heller built an Instagram following by championing small businesses and the characters who run them. He has a fondness for old school places unique to the city. When he posts about one on social media, the crowds and cash often follow. These places function not only as places of commerce but as centers for their communities.

Some special spots close to home
Nico has collected 100 of his favorite spots in a new book. The illustrated hardcover is divided by borough and includes a lot of oldies and a few new goodies. Don’t expect anything too fancy. The Manhattan native describes himself as “a plate-of-eggs-at-a-diner guy rather than a cloth napkin one.” He gravitates toward places like barber shops, bookstores and bakeries.

Of special interest to readers of this paper are close-to-home spots like Defonte’s Sandwich Shop (379 Columbia Street) — where Nico recommends the potatoes, eggs and mozzarella on Italian bread paired with a Manhattan Special espresso soda — and Yesterday’s News (428 Court Street), a treasure trove of affordable antiques.

Small business hero
“New York Nico’s Guide to NYC” is written in a snappy voice and illustrated with little cartoons of New York City icons like coffee cups, pizza slices, pigeons and rats. Color photographs show Nico, in a gold chain and Yankees cap, with the owners of many of these places. They’re all beaming with what looks like genuine joy. And why not? Nico loves these places, and they love him.

Video (the internet) killed the radio star (mom-and-pop shop)
My favorite part of the factory’s Christmas lunch came at the end when we’d write everyone’s names on slips of paper and put them in an upside-down mannequin head. The Lady and I would raffle off all the gifts our suppliers had sent us — cookie tins, chocolate boxes, liquor bottles — so that everyone could leave with something.

By the end of these lunches, people were pretty tipsy. “You’re my family; you’re like my son, Mikey,” Rafael once said, kissing me on both cheeks before he shuffled out. He’d worked there the longest. He was like the elder of our tribe. So, it was awful to see him crying when the factory closed for good. Business had gotten bad and stayed bad, a reality many small businesses face when communities stop valuing what’s unique or handmade. That’s why someone like Nico, who shines a light on the charm and necessity of mom-and-pop shops, is a lifeline for places like ours once was.

Shop local
“New York Nico’s Guide to NYC” keeps things upbeat, but its message is clear: don’t take small businesses for granted. Even if a place feels like it’s been around forever, it doesn’t guarantee it will be here tomorrow. These places are special and rare and should be treasured as such. As Nico knows and shows, small businesses are one of the things that make this city great.

So why not make like Nico this holiday season and spread some joy around your neighborhood? Get two copies of his book — one for you and one as a gift for a friend — from your local bookstore. Then take a look at some of the places that advertise in this paper and ask yourself, When’s the last time I went there? Have I ever been there? Then go!